Since my last posting, we reached Seward, AK and enjoyed a few days of shore leave. We were tied up at the Seward Marine Center by the Sea Life Center and this was our view for five days. Seward is a cruise-ship port and offers a good deal of opportunities for rest, relaxation and
recreation. And, of course, plenty of tourist wares along with plenty of food and drink. Our crew enjoyed the latter as that is recreation for us
when you have time off the ship. For me, the purest form of relaxation is to have someone else cook for me and take away the plate!
We have set sail again, making our way to Dutch Harbor to pick up the rest of our science party. In the next couple of posts, I will tell you about their work as they will be completing a diving expedition all through the Aleutian Islands.
So, where am I? I am heading out toward the most Southwestern region of Alaska. I will be closer to Russia and Japan than will be to “home” and that goes for whether or not I consider California or the East Coast my home. We are OUT there. The Aleutian Islands will be our home for the next 19 days or so. An avid birder may volunteer to take my spot just to get to islands such as Adak or Attu. They may even resort to more drastic measures for the chance to take my spot as this area is nirvana for those stricken with the avian hobby.
There is a huge amount of history here that involves Russia, Japan, America and the Aleut people, formerly the Unangan people. Their story is sad as they have been a people trampled and overtaken by “superpowers” for centuries. They have been displaced multiple times, enslaved and suffered a three-year internment during World War II. The Aleut people lived off of all things from the sea as the land is mostly barren and treeless, a series of islands formed from volcanic rock.
I have been reading a wonderful book, “Where the Sea Breaks Its Back”, by Corey Ford. The book is a detailed account of the first man, a
naturalist named Richard Stellar, who recorded his findings of Alaska in a Russian expedition back in the mid-1700′s. The trip was ill-fated to say
the least. The boat was totally wrecked and almost the entire crew died of scurvy. Navigation was an enormous challenge on a sailing vessel. It seems like the wind out here can blow you anywhere. The seas are brutal and cold and very, very dangerous. The description of the land was that of it being the “loneliest and most desolate place in the world”.
To me, this is one of the most beautiful place in the world. Last year, I had the chance to walk the island of Tanaga. It was amazing, a once-in-
a-lifetime event. I think of the sharp contrasts and impressions of the area that have spanned over time. Living in the world today with our big
cities and all the hustle and bustle and noise, there was such a sense of awe and serenity that came with taking steps on land that does not
bare the weight of “man’s feet”. If the mainland of Alaska is the last, great frontier then the Aleutains are the last, great clusters of peace.
{ 4 comments… read them below or add one }
Hi Tara
Enjoying your informative and fascinating info. How has global warming affected Alaska?
What global warming? What oil under the surface in the gulf? Just kidding. Now that our internet access is shrinking in bandwidth, I am having issues uploading my large file pictures. That is a shame because I have a shot of a glacier that shows how much it has receded.
In Seward, AK, Exit Glacier is one of two in the whole state that can be reached by car. As you drive down the road you see signs that date the glaciers size back to the 1800′s. However, most unsettling is a marker from 1998, which is where I took my picture and it is obvious the glacier has receded by more than half it’s current size. Standing there makes you feel how the land is being affected.
Our second trip this summer, after the Aleutians, is up into the Bering Sea and the scientists have been conducting a long-term project which is a Bering Sea ecosystem study. They have been taking all kinds of measurements to monitor the changes occurring in that part of the world and I will ask them to tell me more about what they are finding. I do know that the colder the water, the greater the impact of even subtle changes in temperature. More to come…….
Hi Tara,
I am thoroughly enjoying living vicariously through you and your cooking adventures at sea. Also loving the history and geography info. you are passing along.
Your pictures are beautiful!!!
Thanks for keeping us all in the loop.
Lisa, thanks for following along! It is tough to find the time to blog, but I think it is worth it. We are still in Dutch Harbor awaiting baggage to arrive and I should be working on a post, but I am opting for a walk. It is blue skies and sunny in Dutch and that is a rare event. I am going to scout for some eagle shots, they are everywhere here. There have been two sitting on our mast all morning….not a common occurrence to have coffee with eagles staring at you from 30 feet away! Hope you are all having a great summer….T